Buying a Second Home or Vacation Property: Inspection Checklist

• -Inspect all plumbing supply and drain lines for evidence of freeze damage or amateur repairs
• -Check under all sinks, around water heaters, and at dishwasher connections for drip stains or rot
• -Inspect subfloor for soft spots at exterior doors, below windows, and near plumbing fixtures
• -Check basement and crawl space for efflorescence, staining, or active moisture
• -Smell and visually check every room for mold indicators, particularly in closed rooms and closets
• -Test all faucets, showers, and toilets for flow and drainage

• -Verify that any plumbing winterization (antifreeze in traps, blown supply lines) was performed correctly
• -Check that shutoff valves for hose bibs, irrigation, and exterior supply lines function
• -If antifreeze was used in drains, confirm it is propylene glycol (not automotive antifreeze)
• -Test that any heat tape on exposed pipes is functional and on a GFCI circuit
• -Confirm the water supply restoration procedure is documented and that all valves open cleanly

• -Run heating and cooling systems to full operating temperature and observe for 15+ minutes
• -Check furnace or boiler for signs of extended non-use: pilot light corrosion, dirty burners
• -Inspect heat pump refrigerant lines and exterior unit condition
• -Test all thermostats and zone controls
• -Check water heater age, condition, and whether it was drained for seasonal storage
• -Test range, oven, refrigerator, dishwasher, and any built-in appliances

• -Inspect all exterior penetrations (vents, utility entry points) for pest entry signs
• -Check attic for rodent activity: droppings, nesting, gnawed wiring
• -Inspect crawl space for rodent activity, vapor barrier condition, and insulation displacement
• -Look for carpenter ant frass or termite shelter tubes at sill plates and floor joists
• -Check deck framing, ledger board connection, and fastener condition
• -Inspect exterior wood for rot at corners, trim, window sills, and around doors

• -Order a septic inspection: locate and expose the tank, check baffles, observe drain field condition
• -Test well water: at minimum a basic potability panel; in rural areas test for nitrates and any local contaminants
• -Check well pressure tank and pressure switch for corrosion or waterlogged condition
• -Ask for records of septic pumping frequency and any past system failures
• -If the property has a holding tank (no drain field), understand pumping cost and schedule

• -Hire a marine contractor or specialized inspector for dock and seawall evaluation — not covered by standard inspection
• -Inspect dock decking, stringers, and flotation if floating dock
• -Check boat lift electrical and cable condition
• -Inspect any boathouse structure separately
• -If waterfront, ask about flood zone designation and flood insurance requirements

Sealed homes trap humidity from residual moisture in crawl spaces, bathrooms, and basements. Without air exchange, relative humidity rises and mold colonies form in closets, on bathroom grout, under carpets, and inside cabinets. This is particularly common in lakefront and coastal properties.

Mice, squirrels, and carpenter ants enter through gaps that would be noticed and addressed in an occupied home. In a vacant home, they establish nests over multiple seasons. Look for evidence in attics, crawl spaces, wall cavities, and at any utility entry points.

Owners who find a frozen pipe often do a quick repair themselves rather than having a plumber assess the full extent of damage. Ask about any past pipe freeze or burst history and look for evidence of amateur repairs: excessive pipe tape, PEX splices in odd locations, shutoff valves in unexpected places.

Refrigerators, dishwashers, and washing machines develop seal failures and door gasket mold when left idle for months. Motors in idle appliances can seize. Test every appliance through a full cycle during the inspection.

The water in P-traps evaporates over 1-3 months in a vacant house. Dry traps allow sewer gas into the living space. A properly winterized home has antifreeze (propylene glycol) in traps. An improperly closed home may have evaporated traps and a strong sewer smell upon reopening.

The inspection scope is similar, but second homes and vacation properties require extra attention to issues caused by vacancy, seasonal use, and remote location. Pipes that froze and thawed, mold from closed-up houses, pest entry through unchecked openings, and deferred maintenance from owners who are not on-site are all more common in second homes than primary residences. A qualified inspector will also check seasonal shutoff systems and whether any plumbing winterization was done correctly.

Coordinate early. As soon as you go under contract, contact the listing agent to establish when the property will be available and unoccupied for a full inspection. If the home is currently rented, your inspection right may require the tenant to allow access with proper notice. For remote properties, line up your inspector before you travel so everything can be completed in a single visit. Ask the inspector what add-on specialists (septic, well, dock) they can coordinate to arrive the same day.

Seasonal use creates unique stress patterns. HVAC systems that sit idle for months and then run at capacity are prone to failures. Water heaters left in standby corrode faster than those in daily use. Plumbing that is partially winterized can freeze in gaps the homeowner did not anticipate. Appliances that sit unused develop seal failures, door gasket mold, and motor issues. Your inspector should test every system fully even if the seller says it works fine.

Rural vacation properties on private water and septic systems require: a septic inspection (camera and load test), a well water flow and quality test, and a structural inspection of any dock, deck, or outbuilding. If the property has a propane system, have the inspector check the tank, regulators, and supply lines. If there is a generator, have it load-tested. Properties with wood stoves or fireplaces need a chimney inspection.

Tell your inspector to look for: efflorescence (white mineral deposits) on basement or foundation walls indicating past moisture penetration, staining on subfloor or under sinks where plumbing dripped unattended, soft spots in flooring near exterior doors or below windows, musty odor in closed rooms, evidence of rodent activity in crawl spaces and attics (droppings, nesting, gnawed wiring), and ant frass or wood damage indicating carpenter ant or termite activity. Vacant homes give pests and moisture months to work undetected.